Leather Glossary ANILINE: Aniline is the type of dye used to give the initial colour to a hide. Aniline means literally an absence of pigments, and may refer to the type of finish used on a hide.
BRANDS: A mark of a simple, easily recognized pattern made by burning the cattle’s skin with a hot iron. Used for identification purposes, brands are normally cut out of the hides and do not appear on finished furniture.
BUFFING: Hides are often buffed with a large sanding machine to minimize the appearance of gross surface imperfections such as wrinkles or healed scratches in the finished product. This process makes leather more uniform, but also obliterates the natural grain and markings that make each hide unique and naturally beautiful.
CORRECTED GRAIN: Outside skin sand-papered to minimize flaws, then pigmented and embossed.
EMBOSSING/PLATING: Embossing or plating is the process that creates a texture on leather by impressing it with a pattern. FINISHING: To make leather more durable, colouring substances are applied to the hide which provide abrasion and stain resistance as well as colour enhancement. This process usually involves three or four coating operations. Generally, the more finish a leather has, the stiffer it becomes. Aniline dyed or vat dyed leathers will tend to be softer than pigmented leathers, although this can largely be overcome by milling. Other factors affecting softness include the tanning formula, hide quality, and aniline used.
FULL ANILINE: Aniline dyed and aniline finished leathers, have no pigments, thus all of nature’s marks are fully visible. FULL TOP GRAIN: Unaltered surface of the hide which has been aniline dyed but has not been buffed or sanded. Only premium leathers are full top grain. GRAIN: Outer or hair side of the hide. HIDE: For upholstery, the whole skin coverings of large animals.
LEATHER: A hide that has been tanned to render it resistant to decay.
MILLING: A natural softening process in which leather is tumbled in a drum.
NATURAL MARKINGS: The subtle markings on leather are analogous to finger prints. They distinguish genuine leather from man made materials. Other marks which can appear on the surface of leather are healed scratches and scars, barbed wire marks, stretch marks, vein marks, wrinkles, brands and insect holes. NECK WRINKLES: Natural creases from the neck and shoulder areas of the hide. NUBUCK: This is a full aniline that has been sanded or buffed in order to create a nap. This is atop grain leather, therefore it is not considered a split or suede.
NUDE FINISH: A leather that is usually vat dyed, but has little or no protective coat. PIGMENT FINISH: The colouring of a hide using a coating containing opaque pigments. This ensures uniformity of shade and resistance to fading. PULL-UP: A pull-up leather is one which, when pulled tight, produces a brilliant burst of colour. Pull-ups are full aniline leathers that have been an oil and/or wax application. When the leather is pulled, the oil and/or wax separates, causing the colour to become lighter. Pull-ups can have varying thicknesses. PURE ANILINE: An aniline dyed hide which has no finish. This is the ultimate leather often referred to as naked resistance. SEMI-ANILINE: A semi-aniline leather has been aniline dyed, then slightly pigmented. Because pigment is solid, this type of leather ensures colour consistency while having stain and spill resistance. SKIN: Pelt from young or small animal. SNUFF: Slight abrasion of the hide’s surface, likened to removing newsprint from newspaper. SPLIT: The underneath layer of the hide which has been "split" off from the top grain. It is then usually given a suede or pigment finish, embossed and used for shoes or garments. Split hides are generally thicker and stiffer than top grain leather, and may be used in less expensive upholstered furniture applications. SQUARE FEET: Hides are measured by square feet, one yard is approximately 17 square feet. SUEDE: Leather finished by buffing with an emery wheel to produce a napped surface. Suede is not as durable as top grain leather. TANNING: A chemical process which converts the raw hide into a stable product. This process is often accomplished in large vats or drums.
TANNING AGENTS: Today’s upholstery leathers are tanned with soluble chromium sulphate. Synthetic tanning and vegetable materials derived from plants and wood (bark tanning) may also be used in combination. THICKNESS OR WEIGHT: Measured in millimeters which, when divided by four, are quoted in ounces. TOP GRAIN: When a hide is split, the top grain is the very top layer or hair cell layer of the hide that possesses the hide’s natural grain. It can be corrected by snuffing. Top |